LED AC Panel Faceplate for the DeLorean

Dave McKeen's LED AC Panel Faceplate (in green), I stole this image from Dave's website

Dave McKeen, aka Bitsyncmaster, has done it again.  His new product is an LED AC Panel Faceplate.  I already have Dave's Dome Light Timer Relay and Solid State RPM Relay.  As you can see, I am a fan of Dave's work.  His new project replaces all seven light bulbs behind the AC panel and lights the faceplate using LED's.

The faceplate is available in green and blue.  Green matches the original look of the DeLorean AC Panel, while blue gives the interior a more 'modern' look.  Since I made blue LED window switches and have a blue lights on my after market radio, I ordered a blue one from Dave.

Before - LED bulbs

One of the first upgrades I did when I got the car was to swap out the incandescent bulbs for LED ones.  This included the seven bulbs behind the AC Panel.  I was already running LED's, white LED's, which meant the panel was still green. 

Preparing faceplate

Installation is pretty simple, thanks to Dave's detail instructions.  I read the instructions before I purchased to make sure I could handle the installation process.  The faceplate needs some prep work so the LED's can shine through.  So, first step is removing the faceplate.  I took it off during the week and did not finish the installation until the weekend.  I drove around a few days without the faceplate on, and boy are those LED bulbs bright.

Sanding off the white paint

The faceplate used a system of 'light channels' to distribute the light throughout the panel.  These channels are painted white so light would not escape.  I assume it also helped with bouncing the light back where it was needed.  We need to remove this paint so the LED's can shine through.

Finished faceplate

It took about an hour for me to sand out the paint.  The instructions call for wet sanding with 320 grit.  I went to 600, just to be safe.  Now, we are ready to install the LED Faceplate.

How many times have I taken out the Center Console?

In order to get to the wiring, we need to take out the Center Console.  This is not the first, and definitely not the last time I have done this.  Once the large Center Console piece is out, the wires can be accessed, this also prevents any damage to the Center Console while I do some wire work.  Not Kung Fu wire work, I am talking about snipping and soldering wires, crimping wires, and heat shrinking tubing. 

Wires crimped and ready for heat shrink tubing

The kit comes with everything you need, including wire crimps and heat shrink tubing.  I am not that familiar with crimping wires, I usually solder them.  Crimping is a lot easier and cleaner than soldering, at least with my soldering skills.  After all the wiring is done, everything get put back together.

LED Panel installed

The new LED Panel looks great.  The lights look brighter than the LED bulbs I had installed before, and they are in blue.

If you are interested in acquiring a kit, you can contact David McKeen at his website.  You may also be interested in his other products.

Diffuser Lens for DeLorean Door Lights

Last month, I installed the Door Light Kit from deloreana.com.  Although I liked the tic-tac-toe pattern that was showing through the lenses, I wanted to see what it would look like with a diffuser lens.

Taking measurements for diffuser lens

I took measurements for the lenses.  There just happens to to be a recess in the stock lens where a diffuser lens can fit in.  Once I had the measurements, I drew it out in Illustrator and had the lenses cut using 0.090" acrylic on the laser cutter.

Six lenses cut from the laser cutter

The acrylic lenses fit perfectly into the stock lens.  They are also perfectly clear.  Off to the sand blaster.

Sandblasted lenses

We did not have any frosted lenses.  The next best thing is sand blasting clear acrylic.  Now, just pop out the stock lenses, snap the diffuser lens in, and pop them back in to the doors.

Diffuser lenses in

The tic-tac-toe pattern is gone.  There is a little hint of a hot spots where the LED's are but the results are acceptable.  The photo above is not the best.  I like the softer glow, I think I will stick with this look.

Tom at deloreana.com, offers lenses for $20 a set.  If you do not have access to a laser cutter or too lazy to make your own diffuser lenses, get a set from Tom when you order your LED Door Light Kit.

Semi Broken Button on the Nike FuelBand

I have had my Nike FuelBand for about four months.  One day, while pushing the button, I heard a click.  It seems that the button broke.

The good news - It was not fully broken.  The button feels like it is dislodged from its place, but still connected and sort of works.

The bad news - I have to use a blunt object to press the button.  I have to hit it just right to engage the button.  The silicone area protecting the button is showing some wear from my finger nail poking at it, trying to get to the button.  Blunt object is working, for now.

Damaged button, silicone about to rip

I did some research, and this has happened to a few people.  Since I have the original black version I am unable to see how the button is broken under the silicone skin.  Nike has worked something out with some users, sometimes replacing the FuelBand.  This of course requires a sales receipt.  Unfortunately, I got mine off of eBay, so no real receipt.

Luckily for me (and I guess Nike, too), the new SE version that is 'better' built.  I ordered one for fear that my current band will soon completely fail.  I ordered it directly from Nike.  Hopefully, any problems I have with it will be be resolved as fast as my NikeFuel Points issue.

Check back for my review of the Nike FuelBand SE and possibly some experiments with my old FuelBand.

Ti-Click RT Pen - Kickstarter

No secret that I love Titanium.  I love it so much, I had a piece screwed into my bones.

A few months back, there was a Kickstarter campaign for a titanium pen.  I also have a thing for pens.  So, being the best of both worlds, I ordered this pen.  Over my vacation, it arrived and I finally got to check it out this morning.

Ti-Click RT unboxing

The pen comes in a nice box with foam inserts.  I did not recall that the pen came with a pen sleeve, so that was a nice surprise.  I will never use it.  If I am carrying the pen, I would use the handy clip.  If storing the pen, it would be in the cool box.  Nice bonus, but unnecessary.

Ti-Click RT, titanium pen by Big Idea Design

The design of the pen is simple, nothing too fancy.  Being made from titanium is fancy enough to me.  The click action is a little 'sticky', but I think this is what you get when you have metal rubbing on metal, not a smooth as a plastic clicker.  I also feel that the top of the button is too hard-edged, should have been rounded or beveled.  There are no other hard edges on the rest of the pen.

The clip seems strong.  The rounded tip of the clip is nice and will not catch on any papers or clothing.

Writing is very smooth, the included ink cartridge is Schneider Express in medium, black.  One interesting feature is the spring is attached to the pen tip.  When you need to replace the ink, and you unscrew the tip, you would not loose the spring.  Great little feature.

Pen is comfortable in the hand, due to the simple/traditional design.  Overall, a very good pen.

Not sure where you can get one.  Item is not currently listed on the company website, but that is a good place to check. 

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - December 2013

I was on vacation for most of November.  As you have noticed, there was a big gap in telemarketing calls.  New month, new entry on the blog.  Here we go for December.

2 December 2013
   731-489-4058  TN, USA - I know this has nothing to do with telemarketing or Tennessee, but today is Britney Spears' birthday.  She is 32...feel old?  Back to the telemarketers.  Fuck you for ruining Britney's birthday.  Leave Britney alone!

4 December 2013
   310-879-0523  Gardena, CA - This was the best telemarketing call, ever.  One ring, and they hung up...as if they knew I was going to ignore them.  I am hoping that the person on the other end hates their job, as they should, and decided to meet his/her quota of calls, but just hang up after the first ring.  If that is the case, I applaud you.  But since you are still a telemarketer, fuck you!

7 December 2013
   919-218-1674  Raleigh, NC - I make a remark about Pearl Harbor and telemarketers, every time they call on this day.  I think it is more on an injustice to call on a Saturday.  Telemarketers have no respect for veterans and civilians.  Fuck you! 

9 December 2013
   310-879-0523 Gardena, CA - Second call from this number, see above.  This was 'legitimate missed call' by me.  I wonder if they hung up half way through the call.  Either way, fuck off.

14 December 2013
   213-200-1974  Los Angeles, CA - Oh hey, have you fucked yourself, lately?  Well, feel free to fuck off.

Here is how you and many others found this page on my blog.  Welcome.  18 MAR 2014

19 December 2013
   321-632-4732  Cocoa, FL  - You know I am going to make some sort of cocoa joke.  Cocoa bean, cocoa butter, chocolate.  Oh, I got it.  Take some cocoa butter and lube up an ash tray shaped like Florida and shove it up your ass.  Put a few cocoa beans in there for good measure.  When you are done, take what comes out and make yourself a nice cup of hot chocolate.  Fuck you!

   
   240-318-1560  MD, USA - It has been a while since I had multiple calls in a day.  Also, I think these are new numbers.  Imagine, there are thousands of telemarketers using thousands of numbers to harass you and me.  How are these people still in business?  Fuck you!

21 December 2013  
   240-318-1560  MD, USA -  Oh, those lovely Saturday morning calls...and a return caller.  That is two strikes, need one more.  Oh, you are a fucking telemarketer.  There, three strikes...fuck off.

23 December 2013
  240-318-1560  MD, USA - Hold on...Maryland...possibly Washington DC.  Holy shit, this might be important.  Then again, it might just be a fucking telemarketer.  Just to be safe...fuck you!

26 December 2013
  414-232-5011  WI, USA - Glad the terrorists had a good Christmas.  One would never think that they would get Christmas Eve and Christmas off.    I bet they are the uncle/aunt that no one talks about.  The only time you call is to harass them...oh, which is why telemarketing is the perfect job for you.  Evey one, including those in your family, hate you...go fuck yourself.

27 December 2013  
   240-318-1560  MD, USA - Four calls in seven days, and four of those days were holidays or weekend days.  Oh, I forgot.  They called on a fucking Saturday.  Sorry I miss your call, call back tomorrow and I will do my best to ignore your sorry ass...then blog about it.  Because, that is what I do.  Only slightly more productive than your shitty job.  Fuck you!

   310-879-0523 Gardena, CA -  Third call from this number.  Gardena is pretty much the ghetto.  Upper middle class ghetto, but none the less, ghetto.  Having telemarketers in your ZIP code is not helping your property value.

28 December 2013
   240-318-1560  MD, USA - Make that five calls in eight days, and another Saturday call.  Fuck you into the New Year.

New LED Door Light Kit for the DeLorean

LED Door Light Kit by Tom Niemczewski

About a month ago, I got this cool LED Door Light Kit from Tom Niemczewski at deloreana.com.  I finally found time to install these lights.  Not that this took a lot of time.  But like all my DeLorean projects, I like to document the process whenever I can.  Here are my first impressions, quick review, and installation process.

Great packaging

The kit comes a custom foam box.  Just by looking at the box, you know these are going to be quality items.  I have to admit, I was hesitant at first to get these, but the box sold it.  Perfectly cut foam, with recessed pockets for the lights.  The cover has a (I would guess) laser gut logo.  Just beautiful...like a box of chocolates.

Close up of one of the LED assemblies

Remove the cover and you see all six lights laid out (see image at top of post).  Four surface mounted LED's make up each assembly, along with some techy-microchipy things.  In other words, these are really nicely made.  You can tell that Tom spent a lot of time and took at lot of care in making these.

LED bulbs from DMC

One of the reasons I hesitated in purchasing the kit was, I had already swapped out the original incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs from DMC.  This was one of the first modifications I did when I first got the car to make it 'more modern'.

DMC replacement LED rear (red) door light

Here we go, one of the easiest mods you can do to your car.  As easy as changing a light bulb.  For comparison, here is a shot of the rear DMC LED bulb in the light.  Notice the hot spot, not very good displacement of light.  Can you even 'displace' light?  You know what I mean.

Removing the lens

In order to get to the bulbs, you need to carefully remove the lens.  I used a flat head screwdriver to carefully pry out the lens.

New surface mounted LED bulb installed

The new LED's are directional, so make sure you have them in the right way.  There is only two ways, so it is just a matter of plugging it in and seeing if it lights up.  Oh, you will know when it lights up.

Nice grid pattern

With the lens placed back in, it creates a nice grid pattern.  I like this since it matches the grid like tail lights.  Tom sells the kit with a set of diffuser lenses to 'correct' the grid pattern.  I elected to keep the grid look.  I could always have some lenses cut if I ever decide to have a defused look.  This project should only take 10-15 minutes to do.

DMC replacement LED front (amber) lights

For comparison, photos of the rear lights show what they look like in bright daylight.  Above is photo of lights in semi light.  The hot spot is more apparent in these photos.

Sexy grid pattern is so eighties

I should note that I have my lenses in backwards.  The textured side faces in, smooth side out.  Not sure if it makes any difference, but I think the light gets dispersed better if the facets are closer to the light.  I could be totally wrong.

Bad photo of the new LED lights complete darkness

The LED's are very bright.  Above is a bad photo of the lights in complete darkness.  All photo here are taken with an iPod.  Not the best camera, but good enough.  You can still see the grid pattern at night, note the lens flare to the left of the main light.  The camera was not able to pick this up.

Comparing size and shape of the different LED bulbs

One of the design feature that I love about Tom's LED kit is the low profile design.  Having the light source further away from the lens give the light more time to spread.  The taller 'standard' LED bulb is right up against the lens, resulting in that hot spot.  Also, having four surface mounted LED's spread out in the corners help with better light distribution.  Even with the optional defusing lens, the standard LED bulbs would cause hot spots.

This is a great set.  Although a price a little high, I think it is well worth the price, even at $80.  They are really well made and they look great.  For an extra $20, you can get frosted lenses from Tom.  We must not forget about the packaging...just awesome.

If you have not upgraded to LED's, I highly recommend this set.  But you better hurry, there are only about 20 left.  The alternative is getting LED bulbs from your favourite DMC vendor or LED specialist. 

It is good to know that there are people like Tom out there...all the way out there in Poland.  He makes a great product.  Not only that, he makes sure that you get your item by providing tracking number and email updates.  I even got an email telling me that my package had arrived at the post office.  That is great customer service.  He is also working on a kit for the side marker lights.  Once he has those ready, you can bet that I will buy a set.

For technical information and specifications, and how to order, please visit Tom Niemczewski's site at deloreana.com.

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - November 2013

Wow, over a week between calls.  That time change must have messed up their internal clocks.  Which is the only 'benefit' to setting clocks back and forth - fucking up everyones' internal clocks.  That is a lame argument, since I get calls at various times during the day and from multiple time zones.

7 November 2013
   304-988-4693  WV, USA - Hey, first call from West Virginia.  Not that it matters, I still wish ill will on your sorry ass.  Why is there not an East Virgina?  There is a North and South for Carolina and Dakota.  I think Virgina should change its name to East Virgina.  Obviously, West Virgina was an afterthought.  Oh, better yet...change West Virgina to Next to Virgina.

   414-232-5011  WI, USA - Hello, Wisconsin...fuck off, Wisconsin!

11 November 2013
   617-273-8317  MA, USA - I looked up the nunber.  Could be a legit wrong number, or it could be a fucking telemarketer.  Either way...just to be safe...fuck you.

26 November 2013
   925-420-1433  East San Francisco Bay Area - I bet you are wondering why there was a big gap in between calls.  Well, I was out of town and I turned off my phone for the entire trip.  So, no calls received...but the automated telebot kept rambling while my outgoing message played and they sort of left a message.  I am on vacation, fuck you.

27 November 2013
   925-420-1432  East San Francisco Bay Area - Wow, such an innovative tactic.  Call me from another line that is just one number off.  Brilliant!  Too bad, I am still on vacation.  Even if I was not on vacation, I still would not pick up...and, fuck you.

30 November 2013
   325-423-0276  Llano, TX - One last call before the end of the month.  Saturday morning calls are the best.  A chance to sleep in and some fucker calls you, trying to sell you shit you do not need.  Fuck you. 

Mounting Bracket for MOLLE System

I happened to stumble up on this great design by Peak Design.  The Capture Camera Clip allows you to mount any camera on any strap.  The optional mount accessories, like the POV Kit,  also lets you adjust angles of the mounted camera.  I love this simple design

POV Kit by Peak Design

Only two things kept me from getting one.  One, it is on back order.  Two, I am cheap and I think I can make a cheaper one.  By cheaper, I mean both financially and quality.

I recently got this cool backpack that uses the MOLLE (Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment) System.  I may write more about my Triple Aught Design FAST Pack Litespeed backpack.  This is a military grade pack, there are a bunch of straps for you to mount addition pouches using the MOLLE System.  For now, here is a photo for your reference.

FAST Pack Litespeed by Triple Aught Design

The MOLLE System is also incorporated into the shoulder straps.  Here is a chance to design a simple mounting bracket that will work for both the vertical shoulder straps and horizontal straps throughout the rest of the pack.  So, I came up with this design.

Rough sketches of mounting bracket

My design is loosely based on Peak Design's bracket.  I just have two simple plates with a square footprint.  The slotted plate slides into the MOLLE straps.

Simple bracket for MOLLE Sytem

The upper plate just screws on to the slotted plate.  On the slotted plate, there is a 'bar' that keeps the plate from shifting when slid into the MOLLE straps.  A GoPro mount is stuck on using double sided tape.

Slotted plate slid between the verticals shoulder straps

Mounting the plates is simple.  Just slide the slotted plate in between the straps.  Place top plate, secure with four screws.  The plate were laser cut from a 0.100" styrene.  Not the strongest, but you get what you pay for...this cost me nothing.  The holes on the bottom plate (slotted) was tapped using a 10-32 tap.  Holes on the top plate are slightly larger so the plates can be 'pulled' together.

Plate screwed together

Once the four screws are in place, the bracket is secure.  I chose screws that I can hand tighten, no need for tools.

GoPro camera mounted on bracket

With the backpack on, and the curve of my manly chest, the plate points outward about 10 degrees.  Unfortunately, the angle of the camera is not adjustable for left and right, only up and down movement.  Again, you get what you pay for.

Bracket can me mounted on horizontal MOLLE straps

My design also allows the bracket to be mounted anywhere around the backpack.  The mounted object can be vertical or horizontal, depending on the direction one mounts the top plate.  While there is no need to mount the camera on back of the backpack, unless I happen to want a rear view camera, the bracket will work with any MOLLE system, such as a vest.  The bracket can be used for other purposes other than for a camera.  So, it just adds to the MOLLE system.  I may just have a few more sets cut out for future use.  Maybe I can mount lights or make an MP3 holder with my bracket.

There maybe something like this out there, right how.  I am too lazy to research that.  Perhaps someone will see this post, or me with the bracket, and steal improve upon my design and bring something like this to market.

NikeFuel Points Issue Resolved

I have been using my Nike FuelBand since the day I got it, about 81 days.  While I do not expect everything to be perfect, I did run into an issue that should not have happened.  Although I clearly achieved my FuelPoints for a certain day, I was not given credit for that day.  Minor issue, no big deal, I know.  But, I earned my points and should get credit for it.

Unable to sync to Nike due to maintenance

As I have mentioned, you can sync your data at the Nike+ site or via the Nike FuelBand App on your iOS device.  Nike does a great job of maintaining their Nike+ site, as they are constantly updating it...like every two days. 

Follow @NikeSupport for updates on the updates

Unfortunately, this means the site is down for a few hours and you are unable to do any updates.  I have since learned that you can still sync the data on your FuelBand to your iOS device, just not to your account until the site is back up.  I had syncing problems a few months back because of the maintenance and lost credit for that day.

A few nights ago, I went to sync and I was encountered by the warning bar of death.  Site was down.  I had not synced up for about two weeks.  I am doing some testing on battery life and memory capacity.  Good news, battery can last over a week as I have yet to see the 'low battery' display on the FuelBand.  Memory can last well over two weeks as I have yet to see the 'low memory' display.  Bad news, I might lose any unsynced data, like before.  That would be two weeks of FuelPoints, gone...puff, like Kaiser Soze.

In a panic, I did what everyone does, I went to Google.  I found that Nike had a great customer support team on Twitter, @NikeSupport.  They let you know when Nike+ is in its maintenance state...like how a bear will be in hibernation state.  If you have a Nike FuelBand and a Twitter account, I highly recommend following @NikeSupport.

Quick response from Nike Support via Twitter

I noticed that Nike Support was quick to responding to others with problems and answered a lot of concerned tweets.  I expressed concern of losing my data, and they wrote back within a few hours.  Given the amount of responses a major company would get, I was impressed.  Why not have them fix the problem with my account?

Excellent costumer support from Nike

I stated my problem, at first there was a little miscommunication, as I am sure they are busy.  They respond within minutes to questions and comments.  Within a few hours, they fixed my account.  I got the "We made an adjustment to your account", tweet at 7AM on a Saturday.  A Saturday...at 7AM!  I was barely up, just checking my social media...I know bad habit...and I get this tweet.  Seven AM, this means they were there working on my account before the sun was up...on a Saturday.  That is above and beyond customer service.

Thank you Nike for fixing my first world problem.

Update:  Just got this tweet as a follow up.

 

FUCK YOU, STOP CALLING ME - October 2013

New month and we are off to a great start.  I get excited when I get a call on the first day of the month.  There is always a chance that they can sweep the month and call every day.  Excluding weekends, of course.  But, there are those willing to put in the overtime and harass you on the weekends.  That is dedication to your work. 

1 October 2013
   407-722-3791  Orlando, FL - Oh, you tricky bastards.  Calling from a different extension does not fool me.  Well, maybe you guys get a new set of numbers each month.  If that is the case, that is a slick move.  So, now that I know what number you are calling from this month, I will be sure to ignore you.  Thanks, and fuck off.

   407-722-3791  Orlando, FL - I have to admit, I am running out of creative and funny things to say about this caller.  Usually, I make fun of the city...already done that.  Sometimes, I will comment on the number and its relations to other numbers.  Again, already done.  Recently, I have even bitched about receiving multiple calls from the same number.  These guys have done all that within a week...shit, they did it within 24 hours.  Now that is service and dedication.  Maybe they should leave a message...oh, I already cover that angle, too.  Fuck!

7 October 2013
   267-298-1514  PA, USA -  First call from Pennsylvania.  Oh, I hope it is the Amish calling me.  That would make my day.  What if the Amish honeymoon as telemarketers?  Could make a great Nicholas Cage movie, directed by M. Night Shyamalan.

11 October 2013
   407-733-7137  Orlando, FL - Orlando, where have you been? Looks like you got a make over.  Look at the numbers above, the ones you were using earlier in the month.  So you changed a few numbers, you still look like a big bag of douche.  I see through your shitty disguise, fuck you!

14 October 2013
   Unknown - Fucking 'Steve' from some injury scam center just called.  Normally, I do not pick up...but I am doing some exciting top secret stuff and someone maybe contacting me.  More on that later.  Anyway, I just let 'Steve' talk.  He has a great voice.  He should do radio or some voice over work.  Why waste your life harassing people as a telemarketer?  Fuck you, Steve.

17 October 2013
   540-898-8818  Fredericksburg, VA - A missed call, but definitely a telemarketer call.  Good thing they called back.

   540-898-8818  Fredericksburg, VA - Actually, I missed two calls from these guys.  Seems like they call right after the first call.  As if I am going to pick up.  If I missed your call the first thirty seconds ago, what makes you think I am going to pick up now?  Fuck you.

19 October 2013
   540-898-8818  Fredericksburg, VA - Not one

   540-898-8818  Fredericksburg, VA - Not two

   540-898-8818  Fredericksburg, VA - Yes, three calls in less than two minutes, on a Saturday.  The more you call, the more I ignore.  I bet that the only people who pick up unknown calls are people without caller ID on their phone. 

20 October 2013
   540-898-8818  Fredericksburg, VA - Wow, on a Sunday.  I did some research via Google.  This is apparently a research company.  The Do Not Call Registry does no apply to research and charity companies.  So, all this time I have been getting calls from research and charity companies?  Would be pretty funny if they were doing research on 'how people get annoyed at telemarketers'. 

   540-898-8818  Fredericksburg, VA - Second call of the day.  Why am I not surprised?
   
   540-898-8818  Fredericksburg, VA - Surprise, fuck you! 

22 October 2013
   540-898-8818  Fredericksburg, VA - Oh, look who called.  Oh, look who is getting ignored.  Oh, look who should fuck off.

28 October 2013
   706-805-1775  GA, USA - Pattern breaker.  One more and Fredericksburg would have had ten.  Alas, they only have nine...they are the Martina Navratilova of telemarketers. 

Custom DeLorean Clock Plate

Early DeLoreans came with a clock, located in the Front Plate (#108240) in the Center Console.  It seems that some of these clocks fail through...wait for it...time.  Later DeLoreans came with radios with a clock, so the original clock was omitted.  Those later cars have Front Plates with no hole. 

As clocks stopped working, some were replaced, most were left alone in non-working condition.  Once in a while, someone who is way smarter than me will make clocks for replacement.  These go for about $100.  Not a bad price, actually, a very good price.  I almost considered getting one.  Since I have a 'modern' radio with a clock in it, I do not really need another clock.

Another option for the 'clock hole' is a plate.  Aesthetically, it looks cleaner, as it does not look like a broken clock.  It just looks like something should be there...like a clock.  While that looks clean, it still looks like something is missing.  I have a clock plate in my car.

Clock plate in place of where a working clock used to be

I wanted to do something different with the plate and give it a 'reason for being'.  So, I took some measurements and made a new plate.

Measurments of original plate

 

Custom clock plates.  One with DMC logo, other with Hot Wheels logo

It is basically the plate that I already have with the sides extended for holes, so it can be mounted directly on to the Front Plate.  I made two versions with different logos, for fun.

Custom clock plate installed

The logo adds a little luxury to the center console.  It looks like it is almost the intended look of the center console...almost.

Close up of custom clock plate

Simple custom project that took very little time.  Reason being that this does not involve any moving parts or anything essential to the function of the vehicle.

It took about ten minutes to remove the Front Plate from the Center Console and measure the existing plate.  I spent maybe ten minutes modeling the part.  The longest time spent was waiting for the part to print.  Finishing the part only involved spraying a few coats of paint and waiting to dry.  Then, removing the Front Plate again and installing the new part.  Total time invested was about an hour, not including waiting for print and watching paint dry.

Check Valve Installation For DeLorean

Edit:  Please read update at the end of post

Apparently, there is an issue with the new fuel pump (#10700) for the DeLorean that can cause a hot start problem.  This happened to me a few times and I had no idea what was going on. Now that I know what it is, I can get it fixed. Lucky for me, it is an easy fix.  All I have to do is get the parts and fix it

The good folks at DMCTalk have discussed this in depth.  The problem is a potential fail of the check valve in the pump system.  This causes lost of pressure in the fuel line during start up.  No fuel, no start.  The solution, install an inline fuel pressure repair kit.  I got this one from Amazon:

SUR&R Fuel Pressure Repair Kit

You will also need two hose clamps, which you can easily find at your local hardware store.  This was a simple project.  How simple?  It only took me about ten minutes to do it.  So fast and easy, I totally forgot to take photos during the process.  It took more time for me to clear the trunk and get to the fuel line. 

Basically, you cut the line leading to the engine and install the unit with the supplied fittings.  Secure the fittings with hose clamps.  The check valve is directional, so make sure that the arrow points with the flow of fuel.  That is it.

Fuel pressure repair kit in stalled.  It was that easy.

Then I noticed that the screws that hold various access panels were rusted.  Some had worn out heads, a few were missing.  I decided to replace all the screw with shiny new ones.

Look at all those rusty and worn out screws

Bag of new screws

I replaced 24 screws.  This took way longer than installing the check valve.

Look at my new screws

Only eight of these screws can be seen when my hood is open.  The other sixteen are covered by the bonnet liner and everything else I keep in there.  Now to put everything back in.  This includes the spare tire, Shock Tower Brace, Luggage Rack, Car Cover, and various tools.

Those new screws really pop

Wow, you can totally see the new screws in the picture above.  Maybe I should have painted them black before I screwed them in .

Hopefully, the installation of the check valve will solve any start up issues I may have.  Speaking of fuel, I need to fill up sometime in the next few days or I will have another fuel/start-up problem.

UPDATE, 29 September 2013

I got a message from a fellow DeLorean owner, Jeff (aka jmpdmc), this morning.  He informed me that I am using  the wrong kind of clamps.  I will be the first to admit that I know very little about cars, especially the internal working parts.  I am pretty good at changing light bulbs and making custom non-moving parts.

Anyway, after reading Jeff''s message, I immediately walked down to the local auto shop to pick up some proper fuel injector hose clamps.  Clamps that are made for the pressures of the fuel pump.

Regular hose clamp versus fuel injector hose clamp

So the process of getting to the check valve began.  One thing I noticed, when I removed the hose from the check valve, a little fuel leaked out.  It did not do that last time, confirming that there was a lost of pressure with the new fuel pump and with its internal check valve.  Gasoline smells kinda good, probably bad for one to inhale.  But once in a while, I like the smell.

New clamps installed

Swapping out the clamps was an easy procedure.  Again, this took very little time and simple enough even for me to do.  Plus, I got black ones so they look all stealthy...not like anyone is going to see this.  Although, I am glad that someone like Jeff saw my previous attempt and corrected my error.  So, thanks Jeff for pointing out my mistake.

Thanks to the DMCTalk community and special thanks to jmpdmc

Update #2, 27 October 2013

This is to answer Adam's question in the comments. 

How does the valve piece together? I bought one and could not for the life of me figure out how to attach the metal cylinder with the screw on top?

This is very easy.  Your check valve comes with two brass collars.  You will not need the nylon ones for this project.  I realize that the 'product picture' at the top of this post is slightly different from what I have installed, it should be the same process.  This is the way I did it. 

First unscrew the top and place one brass collar in the chamber.  Replace the top, hand tighten it.  The smooth end of the metal tube should slide right, stopping at the first ridge at about half and inch. 

Take two wrenches and tighten the top with the metal tube sticking out.  Make sure that the tube does not fall out.  Tighten it good.  There should be a point where it will bottom out.  Repeat that on the other side.

Once you cut your fuel hose, you just shove the unit bridging the hose.  Make sure direction of arrow is facing the correct way.  It may take a little effort to get the rubber hose past that first rib of the metal tube. That rib also helps with the clamps.

Hope that answers your question, Adam.  Thanks for stopping by, good luck with your project.